Our day
began in the Jewish Quarter, Kazmierz. Shalmi gave us the history of why large
numbers of Jews came to Poland in the 16th century when they were invited by
the aristocracy. Jews came here and formed communities called shtetls in the rural,
mostly unpopulated areas. Jews provided capital for the seeds that needed to be
planted, and also had a monopoly on the sale of vodka. According to Shalmi,
Poles really like alcohol, so this became very lucrative. Jews became the tools
of the nobility, who didn't like them, but needed them. However, this put the
Jews in a precarious position with the local serfs, who were Catholic.
The Jews
were central in the advancement of this area; they were necessary, not liked,
but tolerated. As the middle ages progressed, Jews came to this area in huge
numbers. For Jews, Poland was a land of opportunity. Unlike the Jews in Germany
and Prague, the Jews here did not assimilate; they acculturated. In Germany the
Jews wanted to be German, but , but in Poland it was different. By the 20th century, most Jews
here spoke Polish. They took on and
enjoyed the culture but did not seek to take on the identity as Poles. This had much to do with the Polish-Jewish
relations at the time. By 1919, this
caused problems with Poles who wanted to be identified by their nationality,
and did not see Jews as a part of their nation, but instead saw them as
outsiders. By 1939 in Poland, because of many factors, including a bad economy,
the Poles have a very grave relationship with all minorities here, including
the Jews, who represent 10% of the population. Because so many Jews lived in
the heart of big cities, the population of Jews in these city centers, their
presence is felt more by the non-Jewish residents. Some helped Jews, some
killed Jews, but most were bystanders who saw the Nazi actions during the
Holocaust as solving a Polish problem.
The Poles would never have done what the Nazis did, because they are
deeply Christian, and as we had heard before, it is an integral part of Catholic
teachings (The Witness Theory) that says the Jew, persecuted but alive, is a
necessary element for Jesus Christ to come again.
Shalmi
also told us that while the Nazis themselves were Christian albeit not
church-going, the Nazi ideology was against Christianity because it came out of
Judaism, and anything that developed from Judaism was destructive.
Inside
the Stara Synagogue in the Jewish Quarter, also known as the Old Synagogue
because it was built in 1407, Shalmi taught us about the history of Hasidism, a
part of Judaism that reflects emotional piety of the people who practice it.
Jews here were visible, because of their Hasidism, and kept their religious
practices, which also set them apart. They closed their businesses on Saturdays
because of the Sabbath, and opened them on Sundays. They wore clothing and
earlocks which set them apart in appearance. Their identity was very deeply
connected to their religious practices and beliefs. Like Christianity, but unlike Judaism,
Hasidism relied upon the personal relationship to God. If you felt love for God, he will
understand. In Judaism, they were
supposed to fear God, not love Him. We
also heard about some of the practices of Hasidism, such as the method of
teaching a young boy to read beginning at the age of three, by putting honey on
a letter of the alphabet and then saying
the sound so that the child connects learning and education to something
positive and sweet. We also learned
that in Hasidism, women’s hair and voice are considered seductive, so women cut
their hair and in public wear wigs, and women singing in public is not
allowed, neither alone nor in a choir.
From here
we crossed the square to visit the Remu Synagogue, also known as the New
Synagogue because it was built in 1650, which is currently under extensive
renovation, although some of the paintings are now completed, such as paintings
which depict more modern knowledge, such as the drawing of Rachel’s Tom and the
Western Wall. Outside of this synagogue,
we walked through the Jewish cemetery, where Jews were given land to bury their
dead. We had seen one other cemetery
located next to the synagogue in Prague (the Pinkhas Synagogue) and Shalmi
reminded us that this was unusual. Jews
would never place a cemetery close to the synagogue unless there was no
alternative. However, since Christians
told the Jews where they could live and where they could have land, this was
the property allotted to them to bury their dead.
We next
visited the Tempel Synagogue, a reform Jewish synagogue which was built in the 1860’s when Krakow was
part of the Austro-Hungarian empire. The
synagogue has Moorish designs on the ceiling and is quite ornate, reminiscent
of the Spanish Synagogue in Prague. It
was dedicated to the Emperor Franz Joseph whom the Jews loved as he did them
because in an empire with numerous ethnic conflicts, the Jews did not present
any problems to his authority. The
Hasidic Jews, however, did not like this synagogue which incorporated elements
of Christian churches such as the pews aligned and facing front, the mixed
seating, and the fact that the day of prayer was changed to Saturday. The Hasidic Jews said of the building, that it was not a synagogue but a temple, for
Gentiles. The word ‘temple’ therefore,
used to describe a synagogue, was originally a pejorative word referring to
non-traditional Jewish synagogues.
Our bus
drove us across the Vistula river to the Jewish Ghetto of Krakow, where the
Nazis forced the Jews to move. The Krakow Ghetto was a sleeping ghetto, where
the Jews slept at night, and worked outside of during the day. The Jews ran
this ghetto, and built the walls surrounding it in such a decorative way,
showing their resilience and belief that this ghetto would be a new protected
area, where they would be able to ride out the war.
In front
of the museum that once was the pharmacy of Tadeusz Pankiewicz, Apteka Pod Orlem (Pharmacy Under the Eagle), we
looked out over the open memorial, with chairs, that represent the furniture
that the Jews carried over the bridge into these cramped quarters, where 17,000
people crowded into 320 houses. Shalmi told us the inspirational story of
Polish pharmacist Tadeusz Pankiewicz whose diary documents ghetto life.
Inside
the museum which has been totally transformed since our last visit, there is an
exhibition about the Krakow ghetto and the role of Tadeusz Pankiewicz. Visitors can open drawers, look into cabinets,
browse through binders with quotes from his diary, smell substances in the
numerous jars of chemicals, and search for information in a multimedia
center.
Here
Shalmi explains that Plaszow Camp, located only 5 miles from here, was built by
the people from the Krakow Ghetto who believed they would survive the war
because they are building a labor camp. They even built a barrack for children
there, so they believed that their families would remain intact. However, on
March 13, 1943, all Jews from the ghetto were supposed to report to the square
at 7:00 a.m. Once there, all children under age 14 were told to line up
separately. Their parents were told that they would come to Plaszow the next
day. Pankiewicz reports that some saw this as a bad sign and rushed to the
pharmacy to purchase one of two drugs.
One of the drugs was Valerium--a drug that put their babies to sleep, so
that parents could smuggle their babies into the Plaszow camp inside of
suitcases. Shalmi told us that 12
children are known to have been smuggled into Plaszow in this manner. The second drug requested by many Jews was Cyanide,
for suicide. At 1:00 p.m., the Nazis
ordered those not in the children's line to start marching from the ghetto to
Plaszow. They left behind what they were unable to carry. The following day,
their children were taken away and shot. Two days later, some parents found out
when they were forced to sort the children's clothing, and found the clothing
of their own children.
After
lunch at McDonald’s, we went to see the memorial to Sarah Schenirer on the site
of the former Plaszow labor camp. Sarah
Schenirer was a pioneer of Jewish education for
girls. In 1917, she established the Beis Yaakov ("house
of Jacob") school network in Poland. In 2009 when we had visited Plaszow, the
condition of the memorial site was overgrown with weeds, there was trash strewn
everywhere and evidence that regular drinking and drug activity was taking
place near the site. The students that
year, upset by the condition of the area, chose to forego their tour of Krakow
the next day and chose instead, to work for several hours to clean up the
area. We filled over 15 large garbage
bags of trash and cleaned the memorial.
Our guide Eva helped us with our cleanup and also wrote letters to the
city council about this as did we. We
were, incredibly surprised and pleased, therefore, when we came to the memorial
today and found that there has been built a sheltering canopy over the memorial
and a pathway to it. There has been
considerable cleanup of the area and brush and weeds cut back.
We next visited
briefly the villa of the Plaszow commandant, Amon Goeth, which is still for
sale and is in a major state of disrepair, quite visible from the outside.
On our way
back to the hotel we drove
past the museum at Oscar Schindler's factory, a recently opened part of the
Jewish Museum of Krakow, so that we could see the gate to the factory, which is
still the original. We also passed a part of the original ghetto
wall, which was built by Jews, and shows an ornate style and was obviously
built with pride.
I am fascinated about the Hasidic tradition of using honey on a letter to teach a child how to read. Such a wonderful concept -- teaching a child that learning is sweet and something to be savored. Continued safe journeys ...
ReplyDeleteReading about your experience has been incredible. I hope that everything that has touched your hearts and minds will be shared with our school community...and the world! Thank you.
ReplyDeleteLooks like you guys are having an unbelievable time. I look forward to discussing your trip in my classes next week. Enjoy your final days there!
ReplyDeleteI loved watching the video of Colleen, explaining the area that the 2009 HST took special care of, showing how this area has been continually cared for since. This is a perfect example of how all of us can make a major difference in what may seem to be the smallest of places. They transformed an area that was overgrown and disrespected into one that is now cared for and respected, for this tour and others to visit and learn. I hope everyone who visits leaves with a sense of pride and determination to pay it forward...
ReplyDeleteThe videos are fantastic!
ReplyDeletehttp://www.savingjews.org/
ReplyDeletehttps://listverse.com/2017/01/03/top-10-nazi-collaborators-who-were-jews/