Today
we spent the morning visiting four synagogues in the Jewish Quarter
of Prague. An example of Gothic architecture, the Staronova
synagogue, also known as the Old-New Synagogue built in 1270, is the
oldest functioning synagogue in Europe. Jews worshiped here before
there were Czechs, as national identities crystalized over time, long
after the Diaspora. This synagogue or shul, from which we get the
word “school,” was where Jews studied the Torah, the first five
books of the Bible. . The shul is central in Jewish life. Jewish
boys, even in the Middle Ages, began learning to read at the age of
three. Because the Jews were always literate, this set them apart
from the majority of society. Inside the New Synagogue, Shalmi read
the Hebrew inscription on the wall: "Greater is he who says amen
than he who reads."
Here, Shalmi teaches us that the use of
star of David as a Jewish symbol originated in Prague. Displayed
proudly in The Old-New Synagogue is the flag that the emperor allowed
the Jews to hoist. The symbol on the flag is the star of David, or
Jewish star which was the family symbol of the Cohen family, a
prominent family in the congregation when the Jews made the flag. The
star of David became the symbol of Judaism only in the 17th
century. The flag also displays the yellow hat, which was a
derogatory symbol because the king made the Jews of Prague wear the
yellow hat whenever they left the ghetto. Although it was originally
meant to be disrespectful--it was the color yellow because that was a
symbolic color of the plague--it later becomes a symbol of pride for
the Jews, as they chose to take a negative and turn it into something
positive that connected the community.
Around
the millennium, Christianity was the culture and the law so that by
definition the Jews, though they existed as a community before, do
not belong and were considered outsiders. Jews contributed to this
element in that they did not convert, yet in the 19th
century when they tried to convert in order to assimilate, they were
not welcomed. With the rise of cities in the late Middle Ages, Jews
were invited by the sovereign, usually the king, to the area. The
Jews paid taxes directly to the king and received the protection of
the king. They were allowed to live in certain areas, called
ghettos, close to the area of commerce in the city, which were closed
at night from within for their own protection. Shalmi told us that
Jewish existence in Europe therefore was “off-center.” He said
that he could visit any city in Europe and go the the main square.
Within ten minutes he would be able to locate the site of a former
Jewish ghetto area in that it would be very close, but not in, the
center of the city, the market square, hence ‘off-center’
Next
we go to the Maisel Synagogue, a place of significance during the
Holocaust, because after the Jews of Prague are sent to
Theresienstadt, the Jewish Museum asked the Nazis if they could
collect personal and communal artifacts of the Jewish community.
During the war, the Maisel Synagogue was a warehouse where Jewish
curators catalogued and stored religious artifacts from synagogues,
as well as personal religious items. The Nazis even allowed five
special exhibitions of the artifacts during the war. Once their task
was completed, the Nazis sent the curators of the museum to Auschwitz
on the last transport, and only one of them survived.
At
the Pinkas Synagogue, we see the memorial to the Jews of Prague and
the
surrounding towns who the Nazis murdered during the Holocaust. On the
walls of the synagogue, painstakingly painted by hand are the names
of 77,297 Jews of Bohemia and Moravia who were victims of the Naxis.
They are organized alphabetically by town (in yellow), followed by
the first and last name (in red) and the date of the last transport.
Originally, followi. Upstairs, we paused at the name Otto Wolf, from
Trsice.
Outside the Pinkas Synagogue is one if the most famous
Jewish cemeteries in the world, made famous by the false document,
"The Protocols of the Elders of Zion." In this pamphlet
used as antisemitic propaganda, it states that the rabbis supposedly
conspired to take over the world at a meeting here in this cemetery.
The tombstones in the cemetery are haphazardly stacked and pressed up
against one another, because there are up to twelve layers for each
gravesite, so that up to twelve tombstones share one plot space.
Before
World War II began, when the Nazis came into Prague in April of 1939,
occupying the remainder of Czechoslovakia, they required all Jews to
register. According to Nazi law, any person who had one grandparent
who was Jewish was classified as a Jew. Many Czech Jews, who were
highly assimilated, did not identify themselves
as Jewish, but they did register. Then one day they received a letter
telling them they had been summoned, and needed to bring a suitcase.
They were being sent to Theresienstadt, which we visited yesterday.
Our
last synagogue in the Jewish quarter was the Spanish synagogue. This
was an ornate synagogue in the Moorish style. Many Jews were
apparently embarrassed by its opulence. Shalmi said some Jews felt
it was less a place to pray than a place to be seen. He pointed out
the massive organ which might equally be found in a large cathedral.
Standing
in the Spanish synagogue, Shalmi told us the story of the Hilsner
Affair, which, like the more well-known Dreyfus Affair in France,
involved a Jew who was tried not once, but twice, for an offense
which he did not commit but for which he was sentenced to prison for
life, demonstrating the depth of antisemitism which could be found in
this area in the 19th
century. This affair was brought to the attention of a philosopher
and teacher in Prague, Thomas Masaryk, who argued on behalf of
Hilsner to no avail. Later, after World War I, Masaryk went to the
United States to fight for the creation of a Czech nation. The
biggest loser in terms of territory, from WWI was Germany. The
biggest winner was the new nation of Czechoslovakia. When Masaryk
returned to what would become Czechoslovakia he was hailed as a hero.
He demanded a constitution in which the nation embraces the Jew.
This nation would be the only liberal state. Poland, Hungary,
Lithuania, all become antisemitic, fascist states. Masaryk presided
over the nation during the interwar period and this is when many Jews
become Czech. They had been assimilated before but this is the only
nation with which they identified. Shalmi told us that in Auschwitz,
before the Czech Jews died in the gas chambers, they sang the Czech
national anthem. And after the war, many Czech Jews returned to
Czechoslovakia, such as Pavel and his wife. Many of them chose to
leave only after the communist takeover in 1949.
After
lunch at a pizza restaurant, we all had a couple of hours to spend on
the market square, tasting “fair food” , listening to musical
acts and shopping.
Our
bus picked us up at our hotel and we were taken to the home of our
friends Tony and Eva Vavrecka. Eva is the daughter of Lici Wolf, who
had completed her brother, Otto’s diary, after he was arrested and
killed by the Nazis. Last year Tony and Eva helped us commemorate
the first memorial located in the forest by the hideouts where the
Wolf family lived for three years. This memorial was from the
students from our schools to the town of Trsice for their rescue
efforts, and the Vavreckas had invited our group to dinner this
year. We had drinks and hors d’ouevres at their lovely home
overlooking Prague and then they hosted a dinner for us at a
wonderful Italian restaurant. Their warm and gracious hospitality
touched us all and we are so very grateful for their friendship.
They will be joining us for the dedication of a memorial in the town
itself this year.
Sorry guys, it's been a day or two since I've posted, but have whole heartedly enjoyed your reflections. Bedros, my parents also spent time listening to Pavel's story and also found it much different as well as more difficult to actually hear words from a survivor. In fact so much so that periodically they still refer to things he said or did. Continue on your journey, all of you and keep posting. "T" hope all is well with you.
ReplyDeleteBe good
Mr. P
I read your posts and reflections with tears in my eyes. My tears are not only from remembering my own experiences walking the paths you are now taking, but also because you are all able to experience this at such a young age and will be able to share this with your peers and with your children, and will move forward with your lives with a decidedly different perspective. To be able to more fully understand this period in history is impossible without the personal involvement you are now experiencing. Remember to express your gratitude to Mrs. Tambuscio and the adults who have made this possible. Without these adults in your lives, the depth and breadth of your tour would not have been possible. The generosity of the survivors and families you have met and will meet is exceptional. Would you be as quick to share these painful, intimate details with strangers ? I would like to say I would in the hopes that "never again" would become a reality...but I can never be sure. Reliving that past must be raw and agonizing. Take it all in and be prepared to share...be the force that will make a change. I can say, without any hesitation, that the full effects of what you are seeing and learning will not be evident for a long time. I believe that it happens in stages. Be aware of those changes and make them important facets of who you will become because this trip will change who you are. Travel safely. Stay healthy. Be gracious.
ReplyDeleteI have been popping in and out of this blog reading about your days. Jealous of the experiences you are gaining in traveling abroad with the European cultures, the sites, not to mention the food. And I consider myself somewhat educated in historical context, and would like to think that I know something about human nature, but the daily recollections coupled with your reflections remind me how little I have been exposed to in my life and how uncomprehendable human nature can be both in evil and in miracles. I am proud of all of you for leaving the comforts of home and going on a trip that is a complete emotional struggle---- after all, you are in Europe, but entwined in everything is this ominous realization of your primary purpose on this journey. Please keep reflecting deeper and deeper as to gain as much insight as you can. Think of your families and friends, America, school, your town, your future, everything you can, and apply it to what you are learning on this trip. Allow it to shape you.
ReplyDeleteIf growth comes with greater understanding you will return as giants. Take care of yourselves and keep a close eye on Mr. Chang.
I am jealous of your travels and experiences; this experience is a once in a lifetime opportunity. The images and stories you learn about each day are so powerful. The history of the Star of David and the flag were fascinating. I cannot image what seeing the 77,297 names at the Pinkas Synagogue was like. The memory of those Jews of Bohemia and Moravia victimized by the Nazi will not be forgotten as long as individuals, such as yourselves, visit and remember.
ReplyDeleteI must admit, I was pleased to see SMILES in today's pictures. I recall from last year's journey just how special the dedication of the Wolf Memorial was. It warms my heart to see that your friendship has continued. Continued safe journeys ...
ReplyDeleteI have enjoyed reading about your trip. I am doing research on my grandmother Francis Vavrecka from Bohemia. Does anyone know if Tony Vavrecka was Jewish. Obviously the Wolf's were Jewish. My grandmother left Bohemia before the turn of the century. Just wondering if Tony Vavrecka is Jewish. Any Info would be helpful. Many thanks. Jan
ReplyDelete